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Welcome
Welcome to Spannerman, where all your mechanical woes are solved, advice given on what to buy and... well, just about
anything along those lines.
If you'd like some help, write to:
Spannerman
c/o Motorcycle Trader
Locked Bag 12
Oakleigh Vic 3166
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Spannerman's Soapbox
Perce Butterworth’s letter, below, raises a couple of interesting points. Firstly, we should all be allowed to change our names if we don’t like them: I can’t imagine what going through primary school with a name like Perce Butterworth would belike.
Among Perce’s criticisms of the apparent lack of technical development in motorcycles is the lack of continuously variable transmissions (CVT) and I’m entirely with him on this.
When you ride giant capacity V-twins, the gearbox is a constant frustration. Massive torque is available but you only glimpse it as you row through the five and six speeds.
Here’s the new sensation: you open the throttle away from the lights and the engine sits on its maximum torque point until the road speed encourages the engine to increase its revs (probably 130km/h-plus). While we’re getting rid of the gearchange lever, we might as well relocate the rear brake to the left-hand bar end. All your feet have to do is sit on the forward pegs. The best thing the engine does will be constantly available without you having to consider what gear you’re in at the time.
CVTs run hot, which is why I suspect we haven’t seen them on big V-twins, but I’m sure it can be fixed.
I lived in Annandale for a few years, Perce. If you ride down Annandale St you’ll hit Pritchard St and if you’re going too fast to turn, you’ll ride through my old front door. The rent was $19 a week, which might give you some idea of how long ago it was…
(Spannerman can be reached via amt@traderclassifieds.com.au)
IDEA VACUUM
Have the Japanese motorcycle companies run out of ideas? I could not help but be disappointed with the new Honda GoldWing. With six cylinders and 1832cc, it produces only 87kW of power and 167Nm of torque. That’s considerably less than a standard Toyota Corolla (100kW and 175Nm) and a Nissan Tiida (93kW and 174Nm), both of which have four cylinder engines of slightly smaller capacity than the GoldWing. More importantly, there is no automatic transmission on offer on the GoldWing at a time when our roads are becoming more and more congested. Indeed, a large range of small cars are now available with six-speed, automatic gearboxes with manual selection mode.
In combination with a very heavy frame (none of the lightweight aluminium frames that appear on sports motorcycles), a fuel consumption figure of 7.1 litres per 100km (the Nissan Tiida does 7.6L/100km in manual form), no diesel or hybrid electric/petrol engine option and a windscreen you have to adjust manually, one has to wonder what you’re getting for $35,000 for the base model and $41,000 for the luxury model. Keep in mind that the Toyota Corolla and the Nissan Tiida are each available for under $22,000.
Perhaps it’s time that Honda and the other Japanese, English, American and Italian makers of some of these giant bikes took a closer look at what is happening in the wider automotive world where lightness, more efficient engines, improved fuel economy and CVT and/or six-speed automatic transmissions (Mercedes-Benz has a seven-speed) are the focus of attention.
The old approach of adding weight and engine capacity to bikes is dying rapidly and it’s time the world’s motorcycle manufacturers took heed and started to offer us a more efficient range of products.
Perce Butterworth, Annandale, NSW
Spannerman: A quick word about Rolls-Royce: it developed its reputation for reliability by having two of everything under the bonnet – two ignition systems, two fuel systems, two alternators and the rest. If one system failed, the driver would never know and the problems could be attended to at the next service. I saw an old Rolls-Royce ad recently that nearly did my head in. It said “Rolls-Royce – the Rolls-Royce of cars”. Are Rollers good value for money? Technically, absolutely not, but that’s not why people buy them. Roller owners make a statement about themselves, their imagined position in society and their values when they shell out a million bucks to sit behind the wings on the bonnet. Given the worth of the brand, it could be argued they get excellent value for money.
GoldWing buyers are similar in many ways: plenty of much cheaper bikes are faster, lighter, more technically developed and handle better, but they’re not GoldWings. Honda has probably been a little embarrassed by the recent strength of the Australian dollar but just as you’re not likely to see a “massive sale” sign outside a Rolls-Royce dealership, there’s not much incentive for Honda to devalue the GoldWing brand. More ‘Wings were sold at the recent Ulysses AGM than any other model from any company.
Regarding technical development, Honda’s early cars leaned heavily on the motorcycle division for inspiration and Toyota is still using Yamaha cylinder-head technology. What makes it into the marketplace is determined largely by what the marketplace demands. Honda now has hydrogen-powered cars in its product range and has had a hydrogen scooter up the back of the workshop for some years. The motorcycle market isn’t like any other, though. It resists change. Honda had automatic 400s and 750s in the 1980s but nobody bought them. The big four all had a go at introducing turbo-charging (widely accepted by the car market) with no success. Engineers agree almost unanimously that telescopic forks are rubbish front suspension but all attempts to market alternative systems have struggled. I guess what I’m saying is that the technology will arrive when the market demands it and, as you’ve noticed, the market isn’t doing that at the moment.
Picking up on one of your comments, one thing I think would work in the marketplace is continuously variable transmission (CVT), particularly on large capacity V-twins. Read Soapbox for more on this
SHORT AND CHEAP
My wife couldn’t easily reach the brake lever on her Yamaha Virago 250. I investigated aftermarket levers but none appeared to be available for the Virago and all were expensive.
To fix the issue I drilled and self-tapped a small, flat-headed screw into the end of the lever at the close point. This worked really well but took an hour and did require basic handyman skills. With more finesse than I applied, it could also provide some adjustability. I then twigged that because it’s not a load-bearing point, the spacer didn’t have to be made of metal. So, on my own bike’s clutch lever, I cut a small, rubber washer sourced from a roofing screw and slipped it around the cable, right where the lever closes against the lever bracket. The rubber washers are about the right size and strong enough to keep their form after cutting and stay close around the cable. Beautiful.
So, for five cents (if you ignore the six-pack consumed while pondering the solution), I’m grinning. Mine has lasted six months so far but if I have to go and spend another five cents occasionally, I’ll wear it.
Paul Ransley, paul.ransley@ato.gov.au
Spannerman: Six-packs are often a source of inspiration for back-shed mechanics, Paul, which is why every decent shed has a refrigerator in it. Your engineering clearly works on your bikes but may not be suitable for all bikes. Yes, you can muck around with cable-operated brakes and clutches but hydraulics are a different kettle of fish. With a non-hydraulic clutch, your technique, after you’ve adjusted the cable length, will get the lever closer to the bars but you have to ensure the remaining travel to the bars is sufficient for the clutch to disengage. The screw-fix for most hydraulic front brakes my actually apply some hydraulic pressure which is definitely not what you want.
Six months from a roofing nail seal is good value for money. I put a rubber band on an automatic choke to keep it from engaging until I could get around to a permanent fix. Nine months have now passed…
THE OLD GEEZER RIDES AGAIN
Thanks heaps for the possible solutions to my problem with my old Suzuki GS750. I will try the easiest first and move up. As per your request, I’ve enclosed a few pictures of my bike. My wife calls it “the old geezer” and I’m just hoping it’s the bike she’s referring to.
I’ve managed to hide the air pods in an old airbox from another model. I’m hunting around for another seat as the bike’s previous owner was a bit vertically challenged and he modified it to suit. The bike isn’t totally original and won’t win a concourse but it’s good fun to ride on club days with the Northern Rivers Classic
Motorcycle Club.
We have our annual rally on September 27/28 – you should try to get up here and enjoy our fantastic hilly
and bent country.
Doug Townsend, doug2sue@bigpond.net.au
Spannerman: There’s Doug’s email address for anyone with an original GS750 seat they no longer require. Being “bent” in the Northern Rivers area is an attractive prospect, Doug – weather should be good in September, too. Thanks for the photos as well.
We’ll put them to good use.
TIGER TALES
I have recently purchased a 1994 Triumph Tiger 900 with 37,000km on the clock. It’s visually very tidy but has no rego and a starter (sprag) clutch fault. The bike has an interesting history in that it had been a personal import from the UK and comes with some interesting receipts. It was originally sold to a Mr A. Gamble in December, 1994, from Jack Lilley Ltd, High St, Shepperton, Middlesex, and came to Australia in 1999.
During my research prior to the purchase, a friend gave me the September 2000 issue of MT (#109) which had a three-page section on buying a used Tiger in which the above starter problem raised its ugly head. I’m surprised, given the reputation of being basically bullet-proof, that Triumph had under-engineered this component and buried it so deep in the engine. Mind you, if the fault hadn’t been there, I’d have never acquired the bike so cheaply.
The MT article said the igniter may have been the cause of the problem. Is there any way I can tell if it’s been replaced? The sprag clutch will be a big repair so is there anything else I need to know while the engine’s apart so I don’t have to do it twice?
The bike isn’t fitted with a centrestand so I’ll need some kind of swingarm stand to support the bike for engine removal. Any suggestions? When it’s going again, what oil should I use and what change period should I adopt?
Frank Thomas, Tura Beach, NSW
Spannerman:The clutch fault is known to Triumph and in case you need to refresh your dealer’s memory, the fix is in service bulletin 194. It’s a big job but the engine has no other service issues for you to address while it’s apart. Having said this, at 37,000km, I’d probably have the bearing shell clearances measured along with the cylinder liners and other wear items, particularly if you intend to keep the bike for the long term.
Oil recommendations are difficult because you’ll need to start again if you replace the cylinder liners. Popular among Triumph owners now is a mineral-based running-in oil (10,000km) and then a change to a full synthetic. You don’t know what’s been used so far but if the engine goes back together the way it’s been taken apart, Triumph would recommend the full synthetic route.
Centrestands are an optional extra for many current Triumph models but not for your ’94 example. An adjustable race stand will do the job for you. I’ve heard good things about Anderson Bike Stands in Minto. Ring them on (02) 9603 6565.
PROMISES, PROMISES...
I’m Roger Thompson, the fellow BMW R60/6 owner who spoke with you on the last Saturday of the Ulysses AGM in Townsville. You were clearly “with drink” at the time and may have forgotten my question.
To refresh your memory, I have a Magura radial-brake master cylinder fitted to my project bike which drives a fully reconditioned, single-pot Brembo caliper (as fitted to a BMW R80GS from whence it came). The problem is the lack of lever feel, travel and bite. You mentioned something about the ratios between these components having to be matched to be effective.
When I ordered the Magura master cylinder, they could only supply one that would drive a six-pot caliper. Do you think the Magura master cylinder is creating excessive pressure in the lines? Do I have any options for adjustment?
Roger Thompson, bcheshir@bigpond.net.au
Spannerman: With drink? With drink? How dare you accuse me of this? Unless, of course, it was after about 10.00am, in which case you’re probably right. I’ll send you a little more detailed information separately but, in general terms, manufacturers match the bore and stroke of the piston in the master cylinder with the diameter of the brake line(s) and the dimensions of the slave cylinder. What’s happening in your case, I suspect, is that the master cylinder is set up to supply sufficient force to six pots which don’t have to move far and have sufficient surface area to provide sensational braking. Allowing only one pot will effectively reduce the braking performance by 5/6ths. The result will be as, I think, you’re describing: a rock-hard lever and no stopping. The short, cheap solution is to go to a BMW wrecker (BM Shop (07)
33566128) and get an R80GS master cylinder to match the brake caliper.
BACK TO THE FUTURE
I recall an article you wrote some time ago in MT regarding future collectable Japanese motorcycles and you published a list of what to look for and what to avoid. I’m thinking about snagging myself a project but I’ve had to dismiss my first idea, a Yamaha RZ500, because they’ve become so expensive recently.
My attention has drifted to the Yamaha TRX850. I know a little of their history and, along with the exotic trellis-style frame, they seem to have a good engine. Would something like this fall into your radar on what might one day be collectable? What about the Honda VFR750s from the ’91 – 95 era?
I’ve got one in pretty good condition that I couldn’t bear to part with. When I bought my new BlackBird, I gave it to my wife. I’m not much of a mechanic in that I’d rather ride than fix, but I’m developing Guido’s disease and now desire a shed-full of bikes. Any tips would be great.
Ray van den Bosch, raytania@aapt.net.au
Spannerman: Hmmm, Guido disease… I have a cure for it but she’s already married to me. There were, in fact, two articles in that series: one on smaller capacity Japanese collectables (read “cheap”) and one on larger Japanese bikes.
The smaller-capacity (up to 650cc) area is where the best value can now be obtained and has the added advantage of much less technically demanding mechanicals, meaning you can do more work on the bikes yourself.
Yes, an RZ500 will certainly appreciate in value but it best suits old racers who think tank-slapping is normal. Still in the cheaper end of the market are the Yamaha RD/RZ 250s and 350s. They’re far more civilized to ride, are still indecently fast and have mechanicals not beyond the average back-yard mechanic. My pick is the RZ350.
Yamaha TRX850s are still contemporary transport and their collectability hasn’t previously crossed my mind. The engine and chassis are strong but I always thought the front wheel was too small, making the handling feel a little insecure. Acting against their collectability is that they were never particularly outstanding in their market segment – other bikes available did what the TRX did as well and sometimes better.
In its day, the RZ350, on the other hand, stood out from the crowd. The VFR750 is a Honda icon and a nice one will still be a good ride in 20 years time. A rebuild or restoration would be at the expensive end of the scale, though.
It’s interesting that the list of bikes which made it into last century’s “top ten” included many bikes which are still cheap to buy, including single-cam Honda 750s, Honda 50 Stepthrus and Yamaha DT1 250 trail bikes. Do it now – good Japanese classics will never be cheaper.
NOISE FROM NORVIL
Sometime last year you gave me good advice regarding mothballing my 1970 Norton Commando but concluded by saying the best way to look after it was to keep riding it. Well, I took that advice and now have a question to which I would like a definitive answer.
What’s the best oil to use in my bike? In the ten years I’ve owned it, I have always used Castrol Activ4T 15W50, recently changing to Penrite Enduro 25W/70. I’ve never had any problems with either of them, or at least I didn’t think so until I contacted the Norvil Motorcycle company in the UK – a company you’d think might know a thing or two about Nortons.
My bike was experiencing some wet-sumping, so I contacted Norvil regarding a new oil pump as the owners’ manual suggests it may be the source of the problem. A few emails to and fro led them to ask what oil I was using and this is the response I received after telling them I was using a multigrade:
“There’s your main culprit then – those oils are Norton engine killers – surprised everything else isn’t worn out, too. You have to use MONOGRADE straight 40 in winter and MONOGRADE straight 50 in summer such as the Silkolene oils we sell on our web site. Your oil pump will be worn out and probably quite a lot else to boot. The oil you have put in your bike would cause all warranties to be voided if used on any of the engines we build. They really do not protect your engine enough, allowing wear and grind.”
To add to the confusion, the Norton owner’s manual circa 1970 recommends Castrol 20W50 GTX and I’ve always used similar mineral-based multigrades in a variety of classic bikes over the years without mishap. I find it hard to understand how Norvil can be so adamant in its advice against multigrades for the Commando when Norton itself originally recommended it. Can both parties be right and, if so, why?
Chris Bult, laurel.bank@bigpond.com
Spannerman: Aha, Chris – oils… Let’s start with wet-sumping for those of you who have no idea of what Chris is talking about. Nortons have dry sumps, meaning the lubricating oil is kept in a container under one of the sidecovers and circulates through the engine back to the oil reservoir. There’s an oil pump in the system that drives the circulation but if you leave a Norton Commando for any length of time, the oil from the tank leaks through the pump into the sump, resulting in large clouds of smoke when you start the engine and other, potentially more harmful results. The common solution is a non-return valve in the oil line from the tank: when the engine isn’t running, a spring-ball stops oil leaving the tank. These have a mixed reputation and have been known to fail, resulting in severe engine damage. An alternative is just an on/off valve in the same place but, of course, you need to remember to turn it on when you start riding. One “senior moment” can be fatal
Contrary to what Norvil is telling you, Chris, the type of oil you’re using is irrelevant to the wet sumping problem. A new oil pump will have tolerances which don’t allow wet sumping but not much wear is required before they leak anyway – it’s a Norton for god’s sake. If you ride the bike regularly it won’t be a problem. If you leave it for weeks at a time, perhaps you should consider the shut-off valve but I’ve already warned you about forgetting to turn it on.Now for oils. Silkolene is owned by Fuchs, neither brand being particularly widely known in Australia, although Fuchs is on the rise. Telephone Warrian Enterprises on (07) 3279 4500 for distribution details or visit www.silkolene.com.au
Legendary racer, John Warrian, runs the company and recommends Super4 20W-50 for older, air cooled engines. The theory behind monograde oils is okay but has largely been abandoned as oils have progressed. Norton’s original advice was fine for its time and Castrol’s current Activ4T would be a suitable oil, and it’s a multigrade. I’m currently using an Australian-formulated oil – Ace 30 – in two, older, air-cooled engines in the workshop (BMW R100RS and VW Kombi) and am pleased with the results so far.
The oil, despite its name, isn’t a monograde: it’s an SAE20W-40 with an API SJ rating which, I think, is just about perfect for older, air-cooled engines. Ace is distributed by QPL and you can find out where it’s available (mostly VW workshops) by calling (03) 5367 8794. We actually know so little about what’s in oil packs that a certain amount of trust is involved when we decide what we’re going to use. Castrol, formerly and perhaps still reliable, is now owned by BP. I’m yet to be convinced it’s the same, old company. Penrite is a champion enterprise but has moved mainstream and seems to have disengaged somewhat from the motorcycle market. The best advice I can give you is to use a brand-name, motorcycle specific oil with a substantial base weight (20W plus) and change it regularly, depending on how you use the bike. Don’t leave it for longer than six months and no more than 4000km between changes. Oh, and don’t let Norvil bully you – branding is the curse of our generation and Silkolene is but one of the brands that are suitable for Nortons.
GREY NOMAD
How can I tell what was the year of manufacture of a Yamaha FRZ250 I’m thinking of buying? There’s a date on the compliance plate but I don’t know if it’s the compliance or the manufacture date. How many kilometers can these engines do before rebuilds are necessary and what would a rebuild cost?
Marty, mjd707@uow.edu.au
Spannerman: It’s likely to be a model from the early ‘90s, Marty, and the date on the compliance plate is just that: the compliance date rather than the manufacture date. 100,000km isn’t out of the question for these engines if they have regular service. There are enough grey import engines around to make buying a low-kilometre replacement engine a far cheaper option than a rebuild. Your job is to wear everything out equally so you get the most from your investment.
GOOD MORNING VIETNAM
I wrote to you last year about taking a bike and touring Vietnam. You said you were planning on going yourself last July. I was wondering if you wrote a journal or anything about the trip? I’d be very keen to hear about it.
I went over for a month in April this year and toured the whole county by bike. It was the best thing I’ve done in my whole life. It’s clearly the only way to see a country!
Greg Lillis , glissis@hotmail.com
Spannerman: I wish I was there right now, Greg. It’s a fabulous country but its charm won’t last as the tourists arrive in greater numbers. Anyone planning a holiday overseas should give it the most serious consideration. I hired bikes in Hoi An, Hanoi and Sapa. I got ripped off, of course – in one place it was $12 a week! Honda 110s are everywhere and I enjoyed the scoot. Hanoi has bike tour operators who take you up to the border with China on bigger bikes (250 traillies) and you visit villages where whities are still a rare site. I didn’t ride down south so would be interested in your trip details. Were you on a 110 as well? Where did you go? What happened on your adventure? Considering we were shooting them not that long ago, the Vietnamese are among the nicest people you’ll ever meet.
BLINDED BY BLING
I’ve been told I’m going through a mid-life crisis (50 this year) and (if my wife lets me) I’d like to buy a mid-size cruiser. She and I own a Honda 125 scooter with which, in tandem with a car, we transport our daughter and run a business in Byron Bay. Collecting my daughter after school has rekindled the delight and freedom in riding again. Here’s the tough choice: Honda VT750C or Suzuki Boulevard C50. They seem similar in most things and the publicity brochures, of course, say they’re both perfect for me. What do you know about them?
Phil Boyd, Bay Royal Apartments, Byron Bay
Spannerman: Here’s Phil’s web address in case any of you are visiting Byron – I’m sure his apartments will be bike-friendly: www.bayroyal.com.au.
Nobody is lying to you about their products, Phil. Both bikes are good and do what they say they’ll do. I really didn’t like Suzuki’s early attempts at cruisers but they’ve sobered up with the Boulevard range. The C50 will feel bigger then the VT750C and has a bit more technical bling. On the other hand, Honda has made few more popular bikes than the VT750C and its wire wheels give it a classic edge. It will probably hold its value better, too, although both are relatively cheap. If you’re moving off a 125 scooter, both will seem blindingly fast but the Suzuki will have the edge there. The heart says Suzuki but the head (and a fair bit of heart as well) leans towards the Honda. It’s such a close call that I’d go with whoever has the better dealer in the area. See you next year at the blues fest!
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